Pamplona is a quaint little town in the north of Spain known for its pintxo’s, old walled city structure, rivers and mountains. It has been home to me since October 2018.
From the very onset everybody I met couldn’t stop talking about the San Fermin festival in the summer. For 9 days every summer the city is completely transformed; as it hosts its annual festival San Fermin in honour of the Navarra’s patron Saint Fermin. The festival got prominence in popular culture through Ernest Hemingway’s 1920’s book ‘The Sun Also Rises’.
I had heard of it and didn’t endorse the bull fighting element of it. Having lived in the old part of town the hub of San Fermin festivities I couldn’t imagine thousands of people in the tiny streets and alleyways. I was sure I would leave the city before the festival.
As summer arrived the quaint city was abuzz with activities as tourist’s started arriving. I was somehow talked into the idea of staying for the festival. I reluctantly decided to stay for the first 2 days and escape if the crowds got too much for my liking.
The festival is kickstarted on the 6th of July at the opening ceremony Chupinazo which witnesses a sea of people at the tiny town hall all dressed in whites with red handkerchief around the necks also known as panuelo.
The city was transformed to the extent it was unrecognisable. The ceremony itself was an incredible experience. The atmosphere was electrifying and gave me goosebumps. I felt super connected to the city which was ironic as I had difficulties settling in when I first moved in.
From the 7th until the 14th of July the tiny streets of the old town host’s the Encierro or running of the bulls every morning at 8am. The Bulls are released at Santo Domingo making their way to the waiting crowds at the Town Hall or Ajuntemento going through Mercederes and the famous Estefeta street all the way up to Plaza Del Torres or the bull ring.
I got so involved in the festivities that I decided to run with the bulls. It is very important that you are sober and not under the influence of any alcohol or drugs. Even though I got out of the bull run with a tiny scratch. I did have a moment of scare when a 6feet4 tall man pushed me and another lady friend almost in the path of the bulls in a weird moment of excitement. We managed to get out of the way of the bulls but I did end up with a bruise.
The bull run is just 1 part of the festivities which features various concerts, street parties and events throughout the 9 days. The usually quiet and empty city which is almost a ghost town on Sunday’s is open 24 hours between 6th to 14th July. It was a once in a life time experience which I am glad I got to have and lived to tell the tale.
Wandering Faqir 